Day 3

Didn’t sleep a wink, which made walking Old Town a bit taxing. Gone apparently are the days when I can just get up and go on two hours or so of sleep. But managed to see lots anyhow, including a few Baroque churches, the largest town square in Europe, and a Mucha tourist trap exhibit featuring pages ripped from a book and framed.

Rode a lift in the town hall tower to see a 14th century astronomical clock which actually dates from the 50s and 60s in the 20th century. Apparently some Czech partisans rose up when the Germans were collapsing in ’45, and the Nazis decided to lob shells into Old Town as a result. The tower and clock were heavily damaged. The clock in fact collapsed down into the rubble from the tower’s innards and much of it was burned and melted. This is the sort of damage which was much more widespread elsewhere: Prague escaped widespread demolition but still it’s heritage was scarred substantially.

Took a two-hour nap and the. Went back out. Ate at a marvelous restaurant called Na Kopci, then went to an Irish bar in umgelt to see an English rock band do covers of American and English rock songs…though they did do a U2 tune. Thence to a jazz cellar on the same square where the musicians were insanely good. The music here astonishes, and maybe I’ll try to see Don Giovanni early next week….

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